[un]holy oil
a lucky, lucky day for the most humble of ingredients
Every now and then, I discover a dish that highlights an ingredient in a way that feels original and truly special — almost luxurious. However, when I explore this ingredient further, I often find that the simplest preparations are usually the most effective. See some of my most recent examples: tomato confit, whipped feta dip, or this week’s basil oil below.
Let’s start with a quick storytime: on a recent road trip, I enjoyed an exquisite dish at Rose Mary in Chicago with my husband and brother-in-law. This cozy debut restaurant in the West Loop features the chef’s heritage Croatian cuisine, which was entirely unfamiliar to me. When everything was said and done and we drained the last drops of our wine glasses, I couldn’t have been more impressed. Both my husband and I thanked our Brother Ben for one of the most outstanding meals we’d enjoyed in months. A top notch winner to me was a dish that was so bright, so juicy, and so full of summer that I immediately took out my little red notebook to take notes and write down my thoughts. It was their starter plate of Prosciutto & Melon: wedges of perfect cantaloupe scattered across a beautifully turned wooden bowl, small hills of prosciutto nestled between. The entire plate was then showered with remarkably addictive candied pecans, shaved bits of pecorino, torn fresh basil leaves, and both chili oil and basil oil drizzled over the top.
Now, this was not the first prosciutto and melon salad that I’ve enjoyed, but I have to be honest: this was by far the best. Each salad I’ve tried has the same key players: melon and prosciutto (obviously), basil leaves, a sprinkling of cheese….maybe a drizzle of EVOO if the chef was feeling fancy. One plate I tried even served the meat and fruit layered on top of a juicy ball of burrata with a side of garlic toasts. Those options are fine, good even. But Chef Joe Flamm and his team really take things up a notch that surprised everyone at the table with the additions of a few special ingredients: candied pecans brought out the sweetness of the melon and provided a delightful crunch, and chili oil and basil oil were used as a dressing of sorts. The combo of the smoky, spicy chili oil and the bright, herbiness of the basil oil balanced each other so nicely and brought the entire plate to life. My tastebuds felt sparkly and ready for their tuna crudo1; I’m still gobsmacked by the execution of that entire meal.
We’ve already discussed here how to make a chili oil, and judging by the popularity I’m fairly certain you feel comfortable opening that jar and spooning it over anything and everything. Making basil oil is just as easy! Once you taste this nectar, you’ll better understand where to utilize this kitchen staple in contrast (or partnership) with chile oil. Are you one of the tragic people who hate basil? Fine — try this with dill, or rosemary instead. Let your freak flag fly and experiment, but no matter which herb you choose, be certain to follow the instructions below. If you’re just putting herbs and oil into a food processor, you’ll be sorely disappointed by the lack of flavor you’re able to impart. The herb blanching is key, and there’s no avoiding the day or so of infusion before straining slowly. You’ll thank me later.
I try to keep a squeeze bottle of this oil on-hand in my fridge; it’s so simple to squirt onto just about anything that needs just a little somethin’ somethin’ special — here are some thought starters for your own herbed oil uses, straight from my kitchen to yours:
Drizzle over avocado toast
Top off fried or scrambled eggs
Swirl into risotto or hearty soups
As a brighter, more flavorful base for a vinaigrette
Pool atop this dip for crostini spreading
Drip over a baked or steamed fish
Toss with roasted vegetables and baked croutons
Brighten up a dense bean salad
Bathe a whole chicken before and after roasting
Intensify the flavors of a Caprese salad
Fancy up pizza takeaway night with a squirt or two
Make stovetop popcorn in it and top with fresh-grated Parmesan
Shower a skillet of shakshuka before serving
Marinate a bowl of olives and garlic cloves for charcuterie
Now there you have it; a simple list of scrumptious ideas for you to execute with your new ambrosia. I don’t want to hear another shout to the skies about a bland, flavorless, or boring meal. All hail the infused oil goddesses – and get your butt to see Chicago’s must-see sights before the winter winds!
INGREDIENTS
INSTRUCTIONS
Bring a large pot of water to boil — do not salt this water. Add the basil leaves and blanch for 30 seconds. Remove the basil and rinse under cold running water until cool.4 Dry the basil well with paper towels, squeezing out as much extra moisture as you can.5
Place basil into a food processor with the olive oil. Process until a thick puree forms, stopping several times to scrape down sides of bowl. Transfer into a clean glass jar, shake well and store in a cool place for 1 to 2 days.
Strain the oil through a fine mesh sieve into a clean, dry bowl. Discard any solids that remain in the sieve.
Pour the strained oil through a coffee filter set over a clean glass jar. Continue letting the oil drip until all has passed through the filter; this will take several hours and is easiest done overnight.
Transfer the strained oil to an airtight container like this one for easy serving.
To Serve: Use as a finishing oil over anything you’d typically add basil to: eggs, roasted veggies, grilled meats, good vanilla ice cream…you get the idea! Stored in the refrigerator, this tasty oil will keep up to one month in an airtight container.
Their Tuna Crudo dish is absolutely PHEN-O-MEN-AL — thin slices of sumptuous tuna belly with crispy capers, a shallot-beef fat vinaigrette, laid over a smear of veal aioli.
If using a different herb than basil, be considerate of how it will infuse in the oil before straining. All herbs should be removed from any woody stems, no matter what you’re working with.
You’re looking for the most flavorless option here, and you’ll be surprised that olive oil is typically just not it. Especially a high-quality variety, even extra-virgin olive oil has a noticeable taste. Normally that doesn’t matter but for this oil we only want to taste the basil. Good neutral oil options include: grapeseed oil, avocado oil, or refined peanut oil (careful of allergies!)
This step is important; you need to blanch your herbs to preserve the flavor and maintain a clear color to your final product. It should be quick and STRAIGHT INTO an ice bowl bath to avoid overcooking, which will also weaken the flavor of the final oil.
Be certain to dry them entirely; use a salad spinner if you’ve got it! Any water leftover will not blend into the final oil and turn it a murky shade of yuck. Wring it well!